08. August 2015 · Comments Off on Good Photo Hygiene · Categories: How to, Locations · Tags: , ,

“Photography suits the temper of this age – of active bodies and minds. It is a perfect medium for one whose mind is teeming with ideas, imagery, for a prolific worker who would be slowed down by painting or sculpting, for one who sees quickly and acts decisively, accurately.”

by Edward Weston.

Yes, I admit that I had fun with the title ! 🙂  Photo hygiene is a catchy title for spotting photos.    It is seldom that there is not some spot on the photo, that while barely visible on the screen stands out like a huge zit on printed photos !  The lead image has been spotted to remove the worst of the spots, plus a minute or 2 of work in Adobe Lightroom (LR) and Adobe Photoshop.  Here is the original image.  Notice the spots over in the upper left. Distracting at best.  There are also spots in the center.  Below are some blow ups, for the spots I have both a blow up and an enhanced blowup to make the spots easier to spot (pun intended).

Pre photo hygiene

Pre photo hygiene

Lightroom has a nice spotting tool, and easy to use. after selecting the spotting tool, the size of the spot can be controlled with the roller on the mouse.  

Spotting tool used for good photo hygiene

Spotting tool used for good photo hygiene

                          After selecting the spotting tool, there is a a check box at the bottom of the window “Visualize spots” checking the box changes the image.  The result looks similar to the image below.  I have added the red arrows to indicate spots.  The check box makes it easier to find and fix spots, i.e. practicing good photo hygiene.  Use the spotting tool on the image in this mode and when unchecking the “Visualize spots” box the spots are gone. 2015-07-31_3-03-26-Visualize spots Here are the blow ups of the spots.

Spots from the left

Left side spots

Center spot blow up before good photo hygiene

Center spot blow up before good photo hygiene

Enhanced spot

Enhanced center  spots

                      This write-up on the spotting tool makes it sound more difficult than it is by far. The whole spotting exercise is less than 30 seconds of work. ‘Try it, you’ll like it, Mikey likes it.’ Here are the settings that I used after taking care of the spots to add a little more contrast and zip in the photo.

Lightroom Settings

Lightroom Settings

  Point Lobos state park just south of Carmel, Ca is a wonderful location, It was a favorite location of Edward Weston, hence the opening quote. On the day of the photos I was lucky enough to have have fog which certainly improved the image. Pt. Lobos is a locale that I continue to visit. Hint: arrive early, because the park fills up and then you have to wait for someone to leave to enter. Here are some other photos from that day. PL20070323-Big-Sur-3444-27 _MG_3429-255-Edit-3

Point Lobos

Point Lobos

Point Lobos

Point Lobos

  House Building

Cyprus Coast

Harbor seal warming itself

Point Lobos

Point Lobos

See more photos at Patrick Lynch Photography        

08. July 2015 · Comments Off on ‘…Lightroom is not difficult’, but …. · Categories: Composition, How to, processing photos · Tags: ,

PL20050430-Hakone-Gardens-2819I came across a blog posting to the affect that Lightroom was not difficult to use.  The title got me to thinking, that it is correct in so far as it goes, but there are things that are difficult.  First off, for those who don’t know, Lightroom (LR) is an Adobe application for photographers to work with photos.  It has a number of capabilities that meet the needs of different folks.  Adobe has done a pretty good job of making the program user friendly and powerful.  Although, by name, Adobe’s Photoshop sounds like it is for photos, it is really a graphic artist’s tool for a power user, and is difficult to learn to use well.  Lightroom by contrast is much easier to learn, and generally photographers are much more productive using Lightroom than Photoshop.  There are still a few things that Photoshop is better for, although that shrinks with each release of Lightroom.

So, what then is difficult in working with a photo, if Lightroom is not difficult?  This is the question that I started pondering when I saw the post title.  Think of the various Lightroom courses that I have taught, what was the area(s) that cause folks the most problem(s)?  It wasn’t the mechanical manipulation, or the use of the various Lightroom features, it was rather trying to determine what needed to be done to a photo to improve it.  This was the most common problem, and the most difficult for students to learn.  The student questions were often ‘I like this photo, what do I need to do to improve it?’  There are a lot of ways to answer this question, and it should be answered from at least several directions.

Humming Bird

Humming Bird

  • How does someone develop a better ‘eye’ so that they can know what needs to be done to a photo?
  • What needs to be done with this specific photo?
  • How do I do something with this specific photo?
  • Are there any rules of thumb that I can use for guidance when working with a photo?

Each of these is important at least in honoring the student’s process of inquiry. Part of the difficulty is that there are so many answers that trying to hold all of them as a gestalt takes time.  Let’s take each of these in turn.

 

 

 

Humming Bird

Humming Bird

 

 

  1. Before Lightroom

    Before Lightroom

    How to develop a better eye?

    1. Look at pictures in magazines (particularly for people shots), and identify what works in the picture,
      After Lightroom

      Waking grizzly

      and what does not in terms of catching your eye, or why you like it.

    2. Join a site like 500Px and write reviews of photos.  This will force you to think about what works and does not work in each photo.  If you write 100 reviews, your photos will become much better.  Writing a 100 reviews is surprisingly difficult in terms of emotional effort.
    3. Look at your own photos (Lightroom is great for this), and decide what works to make one photo more desirable than another.
  2. What needs to be done to a specific photo?  I like it, but feel it should be stronger. What are the rules of thumb to improve the photo?

    1. Oak barrels in vault

      Oak barrels in vault

      I have combined two of the above because I don’t have ‘the photo’ in front of me to comment on.

    2. General Rules of Thumb
      Oak barrels in vault

      Oak barrels in vault

      1. Work from the biggest things to the smallest things. From global for the whole picture to specific parts of the picture
        1. Usually this is cropping and straightening the photo.  Lightroom has some hints about how to crop and will auto rotate the photo a bit if you want it to.  Using the built in guides in LR to find thirds, or golden mean, or spiral is very helpful and usually makes a significant improvement in any photo.
        2. Sometimes correcting the color or the exposure  takes precedence over cropping, but whether first or second getting the exposure correct and the color balance correct also make big improvements in the photo.  I suggest using ‘Auto’ for the color balance if you are a newbe until you have a better understanding.  Although there is an exposure slider, try sliding the highlights and shadow sliders to achieve what you want.  If you need bigger guns try the black and white sliders.
        3. Try adding some Clarity slider, and some Vibrance slider to the photo to taste (kind of like salt and pepper).
      2. For specific areas in the photo
        1. Get rid of the spots in the photo, LR has a great tool for this with the spot remover.  Try checking the box at the bottom of the photo, after the spotting tool is selected in the Develop Module.
        2. How are the faces of the people in your photos? Are they slightly dark, do they convey the right mood? In particular how are the eyes and eye sockets?  LR has a ‘Radial Filter, that does wonders with faces and eyes.  It take a few minutes to learn, but easy to use after learning.  It can lighten faces and eyes, and bring the attention to faces.   One of the things that you may have noticed from looking at lots of pictures is that the faces are almost always intentionally lit.
        3. Is the sky washed out, does it need to be a bit bluer?  There is a gradient filter that will help with this, very easy to use.
    3. Finally, use LR to create a virtual copy or clone of the photo you have been working on and reset it to original and compare the edited results with the original.  If you don’t like the results, do it again, although I have found that this is fairly rare.
  3. How do I do something with this photo?

    1. Although this sounds somewhat like ‘what are the rules of thumb’ I am treating this slightly differently to deal with the mechanics of using Lightroom.
    2. There are hundreds of tutorials online, usually as short videos that make it very easy and quick to use Lightroom.   Lightroom is not a difficult program to master (unlike Photoshop).   There are courses offered at camera stores, by camera clubs, and by friends.  If you are interested there is a way.

Scattered throughout this post are before and after images.  Visit  my website to see more images.

27. May 2015 · Comments Off on Re learning Old Truths · Categories: How to, Taking care, Travel

 

“Repetition is a mother of learning”

Russian Proverb

“Live for a century, study for a century”

Russian Proverb

re learning about shutter speed & depth of field

re learning about shutter speed & depth of field

 

A while back, I bought a Sony NEX 6 (Amazon). I have been learning the in and outs of it with sample photos. Or maybe I should say that I am relearning old truths that have been forgotten.
The first truth is that it is better to have a high ISO with some grain or noise than it is to have a soft or blurry picture. The top picture here of scarves is the crispest one of a set, and it is still too soft and blurry. I would have done better to increase the ISO decrease the shutter speed. In this case ISO 800 shutter 1/6 sec. Since I was in walk about mode, there was no tripod.

The on camera flash for the NEX 6 reminds me of ET. It does not work very well with the lens that I have on the camera.

Sony Nex -Lens blocking flash

Sony Nex -Lens blocking flash

That big black blob in the bottom left is the lens blocking the flash.  I need to add an external flash . And from the awful (at left) pic of my lovely wife, that on camera flash is AWFUL.

 

The next truth that I am re learning is that smaller sensors have greater depth of field, which sometimes you don’t want ! An aperture of 7 needed to be much more open.

 

I very much do appreciate the higher dynamic range of the NEX 6 compared to the Point and Shoot.

Finally, re learning, that all cameras and all photography are a set of compromises.  Each camera, each lens involve their own sets of compromises and that part of the learning / re learning is to become aware of these.

What have you forgotten that you need to re learn?

13. May 2015 · Comments Off on Using a Point & Shoot -Traveling Lessons · Categories: How to, Locations, Photography, Travel, Uncategorized · Tags: , ,
Lake Traful, Argentina

Lake Traful, Argentina

“No photographer is as good as the simplest camera.”

Edward Steichen

I am in Patagonia (Argentina) for 10 days.  I debated taking the Canon 5Dii, but decided not to bring it because it would be a tempting target for thieves.  Instead I opted for taking a Point & Shoot (P&S).  Below are my pro and cons around using a Point & Shoot.

Reasons I don’t like a point and shoot

  • No tripod – a tripod would have helped, even in the wind I could hold it down

    It was windy

    It was windy

  • No polarizing filter; the sky has big beautiful puffy clouds that just are not coming out  IMG_2624
  • More resolution; to allow for cropping
  • Sharper lens.  There is a distinct curvature in the P&S images that is annoying.  Lightroom  lens correction helps, but it is not enough.  (see the  image of lake Traful, Argentina)IMG_2677  IMG_2530
  • Can’t hand hold something that light in the wind steady.  Yes, I could/should bring a tripod and put a plate on the Point and shoot, but the tripod ball head is practically as big as the P&S.  A tripod by itself would have done nothing given the high winds that were blowing us people around.   However, putting my weight on the tripod would have done better than me swaying in the 40 mph winds.
  • Lower dynamic range (see waterfall photo).  This is particularly an issue when traveling when it is harder to get the morning and evening hours of low light that decrease the contrast.  HDR helps, but it is not enough to compensate for the very high contrast environments.
  • Have to have higher ISO with more noise to account for the hand held aspect.

Reasons for using a P&S

  • Less likely to be mugged when travelling abroad because of big expensive camera.  This was the primary reason for bringing the P&S versus the Canon big glass.  If it is stolen, then less loss.
  • It is lighter and easier to use (not true) when traveling.  Yes it is lighter, and smaller which is a big plus.  But in the wind, and for the shots I want, it did not produce them.
  • Why take a tripod for a P&S (oh how foolish am I).
    • With a tripod it is easier to take exposure bracketed frames to increase dynamic range.
    • Not have as blurry a photo.
    • Use a lower ISO that has better noise characteristics.

 

So the conclusion is….

I need a new small, doesn’t look like big glass, lighter solution.  So, for the price of a single big glass lens I can get a body and lens. I got a Sony Nex 6,